Kolkata

Kolkata, for me, was a quick stop and the end of my Intrepid tour. I didn’t see much of the city, though I did walk a great deal. Unlike other places in India, finding an auto rickshaw here was nearly impossible—you had to be in the right place, at the right time, in the right part of town. Taxis, buses, and the underground were the main alternatives, though catching a taxi proved just as difficult.

Situated on the east bank of the Hooghly River, Kolkata is the principal commercial, cultural, and educational hub of eastern India. As of 2011, the city itself had 4.5 million residents, with its suburbs swelling that number to approximately 14.1 million, making it the third most populous metropolitan area in the country. Like many growing cities in developing nations, Kolkata grapples with pollution, traffic congestion, poverty, overpopulation, and the logistical challenges of rapid growth.

Some say Kolkata is the dirtiest city in India, but I found it much cleaner than Delhi, though, to be fair, I only experienced a small part of it. The infrastructure where I stayed seemed well-maintained.

The two main places I visited before leaving were Mother Teresa’s tomb and her former residence. The Mother House of the Missionaries of Charity, a blue-grey building on Bose Road, is a modest, peaceful place. In my search, however, I initially ended up at the wrong house. I asked many Kolkatans along the way and was eventually directed to a yellow building. Only later, with the help of my taxi driver, did I find the real Mother House. He asked on our way to the airport if I had seen it; when I said yes, he pointed it out as we passed and asked if I’d like to go in. Realizing my earlier mistake, I gladly agreed.

The house is two stories tall, reached by walking down a narrow alley. Photography is generally discouraged, except at the tomb. I chose not to take pictures, preferring to simply absorb the atmosphere. Inside was her preserved room, a small museum, and the tomb itself—a quiet, humbling space.

At my driver’s suggestion, I also visited a Jain temple, the Parshwanath Temple. Colorful and richly decorated, it was truly a sight to behold. From there, it was a short 20-minute drive to the airport and my flight with Indigo back to Delhi for two more days.

India was magical for me. Looking back, I realize I only experienced a fraction of what it has to offer. People often ask if I would return, and my answer is always yes. I traveled in January, which meant some days were quite cold—like the freezing early morning train ride that left me with a four-day cold—but despite that, India has captured my heart. See you soon, India.