Jaisalmer, the Golden City

Jaisalmer is on the edge of India, about 120 km from the border of Pakistan, and inside the Thar Desert. It is a laid-back town with lots of different things to see and do. One of them is a camel, or dromedary ride, or an overnight camping excursion.

Jaisalmer sits on the edge of India, about 120 km from the border of Pakistan, deep inside the Thar Desert. It is a laid-back town with plenty to see and do. Among the most popular experiences are camel (or dromedary) rides and overnight camping excursions in the desert.

The city is dominated by the Jaisalmer Fort, also known as Sonar Qila—the Golden Fort. Unlike most forts in India, Jaisalmer’s is a living fort. Families have lived and run businesses inside their walls for generations. In contrast, forts such as Agra Fort function more like museums. Our tour group was fortunate to stay within the fort itself, lodging at the Deepak Rest House—a charming, rustic place with several simple but clean floors of accommodation. Like so many lodgings in India, its rooftop was home to a restaurant with a magnificent 360-degree view of Jaisalmer. The food was excellent, especially the porridge with honey and banana. Oddly enough, that dish became a highlight for me. I love porridge, though as we traveled farther west, I found it became thinner, milkier, and harder to enjoy the way I liked it.

Jaisalmer was also where I had my first real encounter with the almighty sacred cow. One in particular tried to horn me, though a gentle nudge of its head in another direction prevented disaster. Dogs, too, are everywhere in India—hundreds of them without masters. By day, they sleep wherever they please; by night, they wander and howl. Many were in poor condition, though some looked well cared for. I never dared to pet one, not knowing what vermin might be clinging to them. Their constant scratching—and the chewing at their backsides—was clue enough. Still, they were never threatening. They simply slept, unbothered. Sleep, little doggy, sleep.

Within the fort walls are seven beautifully carved Jain temples, built between the 12th and 15th centuries. All are interconnected by corridors and walkways. I didn’t go inside any of them—a decision I now regret. Next time, I’ll make sure I do.

Walking through the inner fortress at night was one of the great pleasures of Jaisalmer, though I always kept a watchful eye on the cows and bulls. I captured some lovely night images here. I had purchased a lightweight tripod just before leaving for India, but in the spirit of traveling light, I chose not to bring it. After 26 days of constant movement, I didn’t miss it too much—but if you’re able to linger longer in one place, a tripod would certainly come in handy.

Enjoy the images of Jaisalmer.